01 – Preparation

Background

I don’t know when the idea of a European campervan trip began. Perhaps it was during my first and only trip to as a teenager with my father and sister. We were on a guided bus tour of the “essential” European sights. Trying to cover all of Europe’s main attractions in twenty-one days required a schedule as intense as that of a rock band on a world tour. The excursion also featured many “un-scheduled” stops where we would be funneled into some souvenir shop or restaurant that no doubt had an arrangement with the travel company. I hated these stops and felt that we were missing the “real” Europe so I vowed to return on my own and explore the continent at my own pace now that I knew which places I wanted to see more of.

Most college students choose to explore Europe traveling by train while living out of a backpack and staying at hostels. While this is probably the cheapest and most adventuresome way of seeing Europe, it seemed just a bit too “exposed” for me. I wanted to have a place I could retreat to at times when the road got to be too much for me. I’ve always had a fascination with vehicles that also serve as living quarters, such as cruising sailboats and, of course, campers. If I could have such a vehicle with me in Europe, I thought, it would be the perfect means to see the continent the way I wanted to. Later, when I got married, I was certain that the backpacking/hostel thing wasn’t going to work. After some initial hesitation, my new bride came to embrace the campervan idea and grew to be even more exited than I was about the trip.

This article outlines our preparations for the trip and will eventually link to on-the-road updates and photographs.

Research

Since I had been thinking of the trip for many years, much of the research had been done years in advance. The first thing I did was Google “Europe camper van rental”. There are many campervan rental companies that have websites as well as sites that allow you to search for vans by country.

Through my searching the Internet I found a book, which I consider an invaluable reference for planning a campervan trip through Europe. Europe by Van and Motorhome by David Shore and Patty Campbell contains information on the different options such as renting, leasing or buying new or used, from a private party or an agency that caters to tourists. It also discusses campsites, driving techniques, trip preparation and country-specific information.

I recently came across another book called Traveler’s Guide to European Camping by Mike & Terri Church that is on its 3rd edition. This book contains more information on campsites by country and is a good reference to take along in order to help locate campsites and know which are the better ones.

Another useful reference is the AA Caravan & Camping Europe Guide, a directory of campsites throughout mainland Europe published every year by the British Automobile Association. (The 2005 guide hadn’t come out as of this writing. If camping in Scandinavia be advised that the comments in Amazon.com say that the books doesn’t include campsites in Scandinavia.) In addition to the campsite directory, the latest Michelin Europe Tourist and Motoring Atlas is also essential if you want to be able to locate the campsites.

Finally, other useful references to study beforehand and carry with you on the trip would be the Haynes Driving Abroad guide as well as a good guidebook of Europe to know where to go and what to do once you arrive at each destination. Taking travelers language courses before leaving is also good practice as well as carrying phrasebooks for the languages you will encounter. Even though you are not likely to become fluent in all (or any) of the languages that you will encounter in your trip, people are always much more willing to help if you make an effort to communicate in their language.

Documents

When traveling abroad, it is important to have a valid passport (though some countries might not require it). It’s best to apply for a passport and/or renew sooner rather than later since a rush passport application can be expensive. If you are only traveling to countries within the European Union (EU), there is no need to arrange for travel visas beforehand unless you plan on staying more than 90 days (in most cases); however, if you plan to travel to countries in Eastern Europe, such as Ukraine or Russia, arranging for visas prior to travel is extremely important. Border crossings into non-EU countries can be very time consuming and complicated and all the van’s documents need to be in order. (I am not even sure if you can take a rented van into some of these countries.)

In addition to the usual documents required for travel abroad, campervan travelers may wish to apply for an international driving permit and international camping carnet. The international driving permit is available in the US through AAA and in Canada through CAA. Although some question the usefulness of the international driving permit, it be worth having as additional identification. Always be sure carry a valid driver’s license issued by your home country since the international driving permit is not valid without this.

The international camping carnet, on the other hand, may be more useful for the campervan traveler. Many campsites will offer discounts to camping carnet holders but, more importantly, the camping carnet may be used in place of a passport when checking into campsites. It is important not to leave your passport at the campsite office even if requested to do so, not only to prevent its loss but because one should carry a passport at all times when traveling abroad. (A money belt worn inside your clothes is the safest way to carry identification papers, credit cards and traveler’s checks.) The international camping carnet is available to AAA members through the CAA.

There are many van rental agencies throughout Europe. A good website to locate camper rental agencies in Europe and throughout the world is MotorhomesWorldwide.com. The website allows visitors to locate motorhomes by country and compare the features of different vans and motorhomes. It is always a good idea to do an Internet search on the company, check out their website and contact them with questions to gage the responsiveness of their customer service.

The two books mentioned above also contain lists of van rental agencies; however, these may be obsolete by the time of print as companies go out of business and new ones appear. We were all but decided on a company called BW Campers based in the Netherlands since I had found their prices to be the best during my initial research and they seemed to be an established company with offices worldwide. However, we later found a relatively new company called McRent that had better prices and whose compact vans had a better layout than the VWs and Ford Nuggets offered by other companies.

The following is a list of some of the camper rental agencies in Europe by country:

United Kingdom

  • Sunseeker Rentals Ltd.
  • Turners Motorcaravan Hire

Ireland

  • Motorhome Ireland Ltd.

Netherlands

  • Braitman & Woudenburg
  • Campanje Campervans and Campers
  • Volkswagen Campercentrum Nederland

Germany

  • DRM
  • Reise-Profi Service GmbH
  • McRent

France

  • Hertz Trois Soleils

Italy

  • Freedom Holiday
  • Camper Tours Italy

Spain

  • Autocaravan Express

Switzerland

  • Moby Campers

Van and Equipment

Most agencies have several different levels of vans available with different equipment and amenities. European motorhomes vary from the ubiquitous VW van (called the California in Europe) with a canvas pop-top or fixed high top to motorhomes built on a cut-away van chassis similar to American Class C motorhomes to larger coaches similar to American Class A motorhomes. In general European motorhomes tend to be smaller than American models and there are reasons for that. For one, fuel is almost three times as expensive in Europe so bigger rigs with more powerful engines will most-likely consume more fuel. Additionally, roads near villages and cities may be narrower than roads in the States and parking spaces and pitches in campsites are smaller. For these reasons it is wise to pick the smallest rig that would meet your needs and one that has a diesel engine if possible.

The differences in European camping will also affect the choice of equipment for the camper. Pump out sites for RV sewage systems are few and far between in Europe so a cassette toilet is generally the wisest choice since it can be emptied in any public restroom. Electric hookups are also less common and tend to be of amperage suitable only for running lights and smaller appliances so you may not be able to use a microwave oven even if the van is equipped with one. (I don’t know why you would want to eat TV dinners with all that great food around, anyway!) I don’t of any European rental motorhomes equipped with generators either; however, even if one was fitted, strict emission standards may prevent running the generator for any length of time. During my previous tour of Europe I remember that the bus driver wasn’t allowed to idle the bus to run the air conditioning while waiting for passengers at a pickup point in Germany because emission laws were strictly enforced.

The typical equipment on a compact van is a double bed on the pop-up or high top roof, a dinette that converts into a single or full bed and compact kitchen with propane range, refrigerator and sink. A porta-potti may be rented as an option; however, European campsites tend to have good facilities so the porta-potti may only be used for emergencies or midnight trips to the head. There are also extended compact vans that have an enclosed bathroom and permanent double bed in the rear in addition to a convertible dinette. These may be a good compromise, offering comfort in manageable package.

The bigger vans have an enclosed bathroom with shower and more bunk space with the addition of the cabover bed. This may be a good choice for a family of four with small children. I would not get a coach unless traveling with a larger group of six or more due to increased cost and the complexities of handling a large vehicle in Europe. Even though it is always better to leave the van outside of cities and towns and travel into town using public transportation and/or bicycles, it is always better to have a smaller van in case one was to unwittingly wander into a tight spot.

In addition to the standard equipment that comes with the van rental, optional equipment varies from company to company. On some companies, linen service and cooking utensils may be optional. Additionally, an awning and portable chairs and/or tables may be rented as options. European campsites may not have picnic tables so it may be a good idea to rent these or ship your own ahead of time. (In addition to picnic tables, fire rings are normally absent from European campsites as campfires are rarely a part of European camping.) Bike racks and/or bicycles may also be rented beforehand; however, I have read that bicycle rental may be expensive and that it may be worth it to ship your own bikes. (Many camper rental agencies no longer rent the bikes but only the racks and you must rent the bike from a different company or ship your own.)

For our trip we decided on a group 1 compact van from McRent like the Globebus. This van offers more comfort than the regular compact vans while still being relatively small and manageable. In addition, prices for rental vans seemed to be much lower in Germany. (This is also reported in the Traveler’s Guide to European Camping.) Picking McRent would mean that we would have to start our trip in Frankfurt so our schedule would have to adjust accordingly as described below.

Route and Schedule

Once decided on a particular rental agency, a tentative schedule for the trip may be outlined. One of the advantages of traveling by campervan is the flexibility to change plans on a whim or alter the planned route when conditions dictate. Despite this, it is a good idea to have a plan and research the possible routes, campsites, local transportation and lodging beforehand. (If traveling during the high summer season, reservations may be a necessity to guarantee space at certain campsites.)

In developing a schedule, the first step is to make a list of places that one wishes to visit and their relative priority. Once the list has been compiled it may be necessary to make adjustments because of constraints imposed by the duration of the trip and the distances that must be traveled. In deciding where to go and how long to stay, I have found it useful to consult a travel website such as expedia.com that offers driving directions.

First, look at a map of Europe in the Atlas and imagine a circle connecting all the destinations you wish to visit. Then, get driving directions for each leg of the journey from the website and write down the mileage and the time in route. Try different routes by changing the order in which you will visit nearby destinations as true mileage may hard to judge looking at the big map and the mileage calculations of the mapping software for the website may show that a particular route is more efficient.

The following is the mileage chart for the destinations for our upcoming trip:

Leg Route Distance Time
1 Frankfurt/Dettenheim 142 mi. 2 hrs. 8 min.
2 Dettenheim/Stuttguart 63.0 mi. 1 hrs. 9 min.
3 Stuttguart/Munich 137 mi. 1 hrs. 58 min.
4 Munich/Salzburg 88.3 mi. 1 hrs. 20 min
5 Salzburg/Prague 238 mi. 4 hrs. 42 min.
6 Prague/Vienna 203 mi. 3 hrs. 29 min.
7 Vienna/Venice 370 mi. 5 hrs. 20 min.
8 Venice/Rome 329 mi. 4 hrs. 56 min.
9 Rome/Florence 171 mi. 2 hrs. 42 min.
10 Florence/Nice 260 mi. 3 hrs. 42 min.
11 Nice/Paris 580 mi. 8 hrs. 26 min.
12 Paris/Brussels 190 mi. 2 hrs. 49 min.
13 Brussels/Frankfurt 348 mi. 4 hrs. 54 min.

Here is the preliminary route that we have chosen for our month-long tour:

Date City Arrival Departure Comments
9/29 Washington D.C.

****

1630 Overnight flight
9/30 Frankfurt 0625

****

Check into hotel/Rest day
10/01 Frankfurt

****

****

Pick up campervan at McRent main office
10/02 Frankfurt

****

****

Sightseeing in Frankfurt
10/03 Frankfurt

****

0800 Early departure for Dettenheim
10/03 Dettenheim 1300 1600 Visit Unicat factory
10/03 Stuttguart 1730

****

Stay at campsite near VW Autostadt
10/04 Stuttguart

****

1300 Visit VW Autostadt
10/04 Munich 1530

****

Stay at campsite near Munich
10/05 Munich

****

1500 Sightseeing/BMW museum
10/05 Salzburg 1700

****

Stay at campsite near Salzburg
10/06 Salzburg

****

****

Sightseeing in Salzburg/Rest day
10/07 Salzburg

****

0700 Early departure for long leg to Prague
10/07 Prague 1300

****

Check into hotel in Prague
10/08 Prague

****

****

Sightseeing in Prague
10/09 Prague

****

0800 Early departure for drive to Vienna
10/09 Vienna 1300

****

Stay at campsite near Vienna
10/10 Vienna

****

****

Sightseeing in Vienna
10/11 Vienna

****

0600 Early departure for drive to Venice
10/11 Venice 1300

****

Take ferry to campsite on the Lido
10/12 Venice

****

****

Sightseeing in Venice/Lido
10/13 Venice

****

0600 Early departure for drive to Rome
10/13 Rome 1300

****

Check into hotel in Rome
10/14 Rome

****

****

Sightseeing in Rome/Vatican City
10/15 Rome

****

****

Sightseeing in Rome/Vatican City
10/16 Rome

****

0600 Early departure for drive to Florence
10/16 Florence 0900

****

Stay at campsite near Florence
10/17 Florence

****

****

Sightseeing in Florence
10/18 Florence

****

0600 Drive to Nice/Stopover in Pisa
10/18 Nice 1200

****

Stay in campsite near Nice
10/19 Nice

****

****

Sightseeing in Nice/Monaco
10/20 Nice

****

****

Rest/beach day in Nice/Monaco
10/21 Nice

****

0400 Early departure for long leg to Paris
10/21 Paris 1500

****

Stay at campsite near Paris
10/22 Paris

****

****

Sightseeing in Paris
10/23 Paris

****

****

Sightseeing in Paris
10/24 Paris

****

0600 Drive to Brussels/Stopover in Versailles
10/24 Brussels 1200

****

Stay in campsite near Brussels
10/25 Brussels

****

****

Sightseeing/Shopping in Brussels
10/26 Brussels

****

0800 Stay in campsite near Paris
10/26 Frankfurt 1500

****

Check into hotel in Frankfurt
10/27 Frankfurt

****

****

Rest day/return van/ship luggage
10/29 Frankfurt

****

****

Board flight for Washington

This is quite an ambitious schedule; however, we can always change our plans if we find we are getting worn out mid-trip.

Packing

As with any overseas vacation, it is important to make sure that one takes along everything that is either difficult or expensive to obtain abroad. A packing checklist is a good way to make sure that nothing is left behind. Before compiling a checklist one must decide what is being brought from home, either as luggage or shipped ahead of time, what will be rented or obtained from the camper rental company, and what will be purchased abroad.

I have already mentioned some items that may be obtained from the camper rental company, such as pots, pans, dishes, cooking and eating utensils, camping chairs, folding table, linens, and towels. These are items that you would not normally take along on vacation but remember that you will be “living” abroad for a short period of time. In our case, we have decided to rent a “camping kit” from McRent that includes kitchen equipment as well as chairs and a folding table. Renting these items makes sense since they are bound to be heavy and difficult to ship or carry along on the plane. We have, however, decided to take our own linens and towels to save on rental fees.

If you take any prescription medications, you will need to bring a large enough supply to last the duration of the trip. It is better to carry these in your carry-on luggage where they are less likely to get lost. It is also a good idea to bring the prescriptions themselves in case you need a refill or you loose some of the medicines. Ask your doctor to spell out the chemical components of the different medications and/or use symbols that may be easily understood by foreign pharmacists. For any extended stay abroad, purchasing travel medical insurance is a good idea in case of any illnesses or accidents. In addition to prescriptions, take along a well stocked first aid kit that includes antiseptic cream for treating cuts, aloe for burns, pain medication, cold/sore throat medication, allergy medication, pain medication, etc. A strong multivitamin supplement may also help keep you healthy on the road.

The selection of clothes to take along is also important. You do not want to pack too much since storage space in the van will be limited; however, you want to have a few outfits that are versatile enough to meet all your needs in Europe. Traveling to Europe means visiting many churches, cathedrals and religious sites. Some of these sites may not allow visitors in shorts or tank tops so convertible pants such as those by The North Face and Exofficio are a good choice. In addition to allowing you to show respect for local religious sites, if you will be traveling in the fall or spring, two of the best times to visit Europe, you must be ready for varying weather. Convertible pants as well as travel shirts from the companies mentioned above allow you to adapt quickly without carrying two many additional garments. Travel shirts feature multiple pockets, sleeves that can be rolled up and buttoned to quickly convert from long-sleeve to short-sleeve and underarm ventilation for when it gets hot.

Layering is also important for when the weather turns colder; therefore, if there is any chance that you may encounter colder weather, a breathable waterproof shell as well as mid-weight fleece and a moisture-wicking base layer are also nice to have. The North Face and Columbia offer great three-in-one jackets that are perfect for traveling. Even though you will not be climbing Mt.Everest (well maybe you could go climbing in the Alps), technical clothing will make life a lot more comfortable while sightseeing in uncertain weather.

You probably also want to carry at least one pair of dress slacks, dress shirt and sport coat or a nice dress and heels for the occasional dinner in a fancy restaurant or visit to the casino in Monaco. Since you will probably be using the bathroom and shower facilities at the campsite, a pair flip flops and a robe are a must as well as a small hanging bag for carrying toiletries. While on the subject of clothes and packing, there is some advice that charter boat captains always give their guests and which also applies to travel by campervan. It is important to take along soft luggage only (preferably duffle bags) as hard luggage may be impossible to store in the camper.

In addition to clothes and personal items, there are some electronic devices that will make life easier on the road. European power grids use a different voltage and frequency to transmit power and wall outlets are also different in many countries; therefore, a power converter/socket adapter is a must. Many newer devices are designed to run on power from different grids; however, anything with a motor, such as blow drier, may have trouble with the different phase of the power grid. It may be better to buy such devices over there and give them away at the end of the trip.

A portable computer has become almost essential for travel as the Internet and email have become ubiquitous in our daily life. A computer with wireless(802.11, Bluetooth, or both) networking capability will allow you to connect to the many hotspots now common in cities around the world to browse the web and check email. GPS receivers have also become more common and prices are so reasonable that there is almost no excuse to not carry one in a trip like this. A unit with built-in mapping capability will be much easier to use than one that just displays your coordinates and direction of travel. Be advised that US units may not come with maps of Europe already loaded and you may need to purchase the electronic maps on CD, so make sure that the unit you buy can be updated with maps for different countries. Garmin units with mapping capability can be updated with MetroGuide® electronic maps and data for Europe.

Another useful feature on a GPS unit is the ability to load waypoints and routes from a computer. If you’ll be taking a computer along anyway, this feature will allow you to plan your trip and make changes to your route on the computer, which is easier than on the GPS with its tiny buttons and screen. If you have a GPS with computer connectivity, make sure that you bring along the interface cable and that the navigation software is compatible with the computer you plan to take along. (My wife’s Mac PowerBook is great but the Garmin software will not run on it.) The same goes for any digital cameras and/or other devices that you may want to connect to the computer.

A cell phone can not only be time-saver but it can also save your life in an emergency. If you have a tri-band GSM phone, you will be able to roam with your phone throughout most of Europe; however, this can be expensive. It is possible to buy pre-paid SIM or Subscriber Information Module cards in Europe at a lower rate. A SIM card is a small chip that fits into you phone and allows it to communicate with the cellular network. Unfortunately, most US cell phones are “locked” and will not work with European SIM cards.

It is possible to buy or rent an international GSM phone that will take prepaid European SIM cards from a company such as Cellularabroad or Telestial. Prices for international GSM phones start at $99 and rental prices are about $69 for 4 weeks. SIM cards are around $60. Make sure that whatever SIM card you get can roam in the countries you intend to visit. For more information on cellular phones for travelers see www.slowtrav.com.

Another thing to consider is how to charge all these electronic devices. Even if the devices run on regular batteries, these can be expensive so it is always better to run the devices on external power as much as possible. Buying 12-volt adapters to keep all the devices charged and/or powered in the car can be expensive. We have found it more cost-effective at home to run a power inverter to convert from the DC power from the cigarette lighter 12-volt outlet to AC and use the AC adapters that come with the devices. It seems silly to have to convert DC to AC in order to power a device that runs on DC power anyway but, since manufacturers almost always sell the DC adapter separately, it can be an expensive proposition to buy DC adapters for every single device that one can take along. Travel inverters such as the APC Travel Power 75W DC/AC Inverter 120V can be plugged into the DC outlets on airliners.

Next Page: 02 – Frankfurt, Germany